Shoe and method of making the same



APril 1933- I c. J. JANNINGS 2,115,366

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Jan. 6, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet l C. J JANN/NGS,

HrroRn/E);

A ril 26, 1938.

c. J. JANNINGS 2,115,366

SHOE AND METHOD C MAKING THE SAME 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Jan. 6, 1936 wag 54 WW 1 21' TOENEK Patented Apr. 26, 1938 1 SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Charles J. Jannings, Union, Mo., assignor to Hamilton, Brown Shoe Compa y, St. Louis, Mon a corporation of Missouri Application January 6, 1936, Serial No. 57,653

6 Claims.

This invention relates to shoes and methods of making the, same, and more particularly to shoes, such as pumps, which are frictionally secured to the feet of the wearer without, extraneous fastening devices, such as laces and the like.

In making shoes of the pump type it has long been a problem to produce a. shoe which will comfortably and closely fit the foot.

' It is important that a shoe of the pump type have a sufiiciently tight fit at the upper marginal edge of the'upper to firmly secure the shoe to the foot. This tight fit, however, is usually uncomfortable to thewearer as the upper margin of the shoe, especially at the instep portion, has a tendency to bite or cut into the foot.

After a pump has been in service for a time the upper marginal edge may stretch and thereby reduce thediscomfort, but at this time the shoe has lost its tight fit on the foot and is easily displaced.

These objections to shoes of the pump type are well known to those skilled in the art, and numerous attempts have been made to overcome them. These old attempts, however, have usu- 5 ally resulted in an objectionable alteration in the external appearance of the shoes or have not provided the desired comfortable snug fit. An object of this invention, therefore, is to produce a shoe of the pump type'which will com- 30 fortably and snugly fit the foot without anobjectionable modification in the appearance of the shoe.

Another object is to produce a shoe of the pump type which will maintain :a comfortable and close fit throughout the life of the shoe.

A further object of this invention is to produce a pump wherein the top marginal edge of the upper will have a yielding contact with the foot without excessive pressure at any point.

' A still further object is to provide a simple and economical process of making a shoe of the pump type which will have a firm and comfortable fit for the foot.

45 With the foregoing and other objects in view,

the invention comprises the novel process, construction, combination and arrangement of parts hereinafter more specifically described and shown 'in the accompanying drawings, which illustrate 50 the invention. However, it is to be understood that the invention comprehends changes, variations and modifications within the scope of the claims hereunto appended.

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a'pump embody- 55 ing the features of this'invention.

Fig. 2 is an enlarged fragmentary section takenapproximately on the line 2-2 in Fig. 1. I

Fig. 3 is an enlarged fragmentary section taken approximately an the line 3-3 in Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a view of a portion of the lining, 5 showing the elastic insert.

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of a stretcher adapted for use in stretching a portion of the upper at a point opposite the elastic insert.

Fig. 6 is a side elevation showing a portion 10- of a last with the upper and stretcher applied thereto.

Fig. 7 is an enlarged section taken approximately on the line 1"I in Fig. 6.

Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 4, showing an- 15 other form of the invention.

Fig. 9 is a section on the line 9-9 in Fig. 8.

Fig. 10 is a view similar to Fig. 3, illustrating the slitted lining which appears in Figures 8 and 9, and also showing a portion of the upper 2 above the lining.

To illustrate one form of this invention, I have shown in Fig. 1 a ladys pump provided with an, upper H, preferably made of leather, s. lining I2 which may be made of fabric, a heel l3 and an outsole l4.

The lining I2 'is provided with a recess, or opening, l5 extending inwardly from the throat Is at the vamp portion H. The upper II and lining l2 may be secured together by the stitches II! which extend from opposite sides of the recess I5 around the top marginal edges of the upper and lining. If desired, a binding strip or tape l9 may be secured around the upperedge of the upper by the stitches l8. As shown in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2, the binding strip l9 does not extend along the throat l6 of the upper at the recess l5 in the lining. The reinforcement of the binding strip is thus eliminated at the yieldable portion of the throat.

An elastic member, or insert, 20 extends across the recess l-5 in the lining andis secured by stitches 2| to the lining at opposite sides of the recess IS without directly connecting the elastic member 20 to the upper ll. As shown 'in Figs. 2 and 3, the elastic member 20 is entirely beneath andconcealed by the upper.

In the manufacture of the shoe shown in Fig. 1, the recess I5 is formed in the lining and the elastic, member 20 stitched or otherwise secured to the lining at opposite sides of the recess l5, as shown in Fig.4. The upper ll, lining by the stitches. l8.

l2, and binding strip I9 may be secured together In forming the pump,the upper and. lining lining to. secure the lining and upper together) are located on a last Z22, as shown in Fig.- 6, where they are subjected tea lasting operation. The pump may, thereafter, be finished in the usual manner.

In some instances it is desirable to stretch or enlarge the portion of the upper ll opposite the .elastic member 20, In this case a member 23,

such as shown in Fig. 5, may be located between the upper II and elastic member 20 during the lasting operation,- as illustrated inFlgs. 6 and 7.

The elastic member 20 will provide a close fit of the top marginal edge of the upper and lining, and since the elastic member is yieldable it will' provide this close fit without excessive pressure at the instep of the foot. This snugand comfortable fit will continue, even after the pump has been in service for a considerable period, as the elastic material will take up any looseness resulting from the normal stretching of the upper and lining.

As a further illustration of this invention, I

have shown in Figs. 8, 9 andlO the lining as provided with a series of 'yieldable portions at the instep of the pump. -In this form of the invention, the lining 24 is'provided with a series of elongated openings, or slits, 25, which extend around the throat 28. Elastic members 21 are located across the openings 25 and secured to the lining at opposite sides of the pump by the stitches 28, as illustrated in Fig. 9. The lining is secured to the upper 29 by the stitches 30, as shown in Fig. 10, and the general construction of the pump may be similar to that shown in Fig. 1.

The elongated openings 25 will permit the lining to stretch to conform to the foot and the elastic members 21 will tend toyieldingly contract the lining to provide a snug rflt without causin excessive pressure at the instep.

These advantages are obtained without any objectionable modification in either the appearance, or the structure of the shoe, as the elastic material is concealed by the upper. Moreover, these improvements add very little to the manufacturing cost as they are accomplished by a. very simple arrangement of the rubber, or elastic material, which can be easily incorporated in the shoe during its assembly. A

I claim:

, 1. A pump comprising an upper, a lining for said upper, said lining being provided with a recess at the vamp portion of the pump extending inwardly from the 'throat of the pump, stitches extending from opposite sides of said recess around the top marginal edge of the upper and.

8.. elastic member extending-across said recess in the lining, and stitches securing the elastic member to the lining without directly connecting said elastic member to the upper.

2. A pump comprising an upper having a continuous outer face at the throat of the pump.

a lining secured to said upper and throat, said lining being provided with a recess at the throat portion, an elastic insert extending across said recess in the lining, and stitches securing the elastic insert to the lining at opposite sides of said recess without directly connecting said elastic insert to the upper.

3. A pump comprising an upper having a continuous outer face at the throat of the pump, a lining for said upper and throat, said lining being provided with a recess at the throat portion, stitches extending from opposite sides of said recess around the top marginal edges of the upper and lining to secure the lining and upper together, an elastic insert extending across said recess in the lining, and stitches securing thev elastic insert to the lining at opposite sides of said recess without directly connecting said elastic insert-to the upper, said elastic insert being entirely beneath the upper so as to conceal the insert while the pump is in service.

4. A pump comprising an upper having a continuous outer face at the throat of the pump, a

which comprises securing an elastic insert to the lining at the throat of the shoe, locating a mem-.

ber between said elastic 'insert and the upper of the shoe, and subjecting the upper and lining to a lasting operation while retaining said member between the elastic and upper so as to enlarge the upper ln the area opposite said elastic insert.

6. In the art of making shoes, the process which comprises forming a recess in the lining at the throat portion thereof, stitching an elastic member to the lining at opposite sides of said recess, securing said lining to an upper, locating a member between said elastic member and the upper, and subjecting the upper and lining to a lasting operation while retaining said .member between the elastic member and upper so as to enlarge the portion of the upper opposite said elastic member. a

' CHARLES J. JANNINGS. 

